Grade A Cashmere

Oh my actual god, more dull stuff about cashmere.

But you’ll still thank me.

Guess what? All cashmere is not created equal.

Let’s caveat all of this by saying that some cheap cashmere jumpers may be quite smooth and cloud-like (which may not last) and some expensive jumpers may feel like a Brillo pad in a week. This is an issue around brand trust. If you love a brand – chances are they are not trying to sell you crap. But…one of our favourite, highly-trusted British brands, you know who I’m talking about, used to be trustworthy and now isn’t. The finance department stepped in. But don’t get me started.

Caveat done.

Cashmere fibres are measured in microns. The smaller the micron, the slimmer the fibre and the softer the jumper. GRADE A cashmere fibre is below 14 microns. Basic cashmere fibre is up to 30 microns. A human hair is on average 70 microns though it can be up to 180 but that’s probably a werewolf and haven’t we all known one of them?

Some cashmere jumpers will feel soft because they’ve had a little bit of a brush before leaving the factory. I bought a cheap jumper last year and after one wash it lost all its cloudiness. So I won’t be buying that brand again.

The only way to know if you’re buying a lastingly soft cashmere sweater is to check it is 100% GRADE A cashmere. If it doesn’t say it, it won’t be GRADE A.

Some ‘cashmere’ jumpers are not just cashmere, they are a blend of fibres. The tag might not highlight this, in fact the garment might be sold as ‘cashmere’ when it’s only a low percentage. You’ll only find out if you check the inside label. A wool and cashmere mix is a good way to save money for the brand (and the customer if the economy is passed on) but it’s not the real deal and it won’t feel like hugging heaven.

Some cashmere jumpers are 100% cashmere (potentially GRADE A) but they feel light and very fine (fine in the sheer sense not the ‘grand’ sense).

Some brands will call this kind of cashmere something ‘luxury’ sounding – like gossamer cashmere or finest cashmere. What it means is, it’s thin – both the cashmere and the terminology. The yarn itself might be one-ply (not two – which is the industry norm) and the needles might be thicker than average – so the jumper is holier than it should be and weigh less. Lots of brands have reduced their costs by using less cashmere per jumper. One very nice chap I know buys himself the same V neck cashmere sweater every year, same colour, same size from the same brand (reducing his mental load, he says) and has recently noticed his jumpers are getting lighter and thinner. Less cuddly. He even weighed one from five years and compared to now – and the new one has 28% less cashmere in it, but is a higher price. Obvs.

A gossamer cashmere sweater might look soft and light, but it won’t last. The tighter the knit, the more opaque the sweater, the longer you’ll get to love it. GRADE A cashmere knitted on a fine-gauge machine (thin needles) so the finish is smooth and densely opaque will give you a jumper that will last, in the way that cashmere used to last back in the day.

Finally pricing. Like anything, if it’s too cheap, you can smell a rat. Poor quality cashmere is easy enough to fake when it’s still in the store, but once you’ve worn it a few times, you’ll know that the price was low for a reason. 100% GRADE A cashmere, knitted compactly, will require at least six goats’ worth of fibre (they shed 50g once per year) for a classic round neck sweater, or as much as fifteen if you’re looking at a big old chunky cardigan. It ain’t gonna be cheap. But from a cost per wear point of view, you’ll have a garment that, if treated right, will last a lifetime.